Verify the company's Georgia licenses and insurance, find out who will actually install and service the system, and compare at least two or three written quotes on the same terms. Get the cash price and full financed cost in writing, read lease escalators and transfer terms closely, and never sign on the first visit.
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Solar is a long-term purchase that's often sold with short-term pressure. Door-to-door canvassers, phone and social media campaigns, and "today only" pricing are common across the industry. The installer and the contract you choose will matter for 20 years or more, so it's worth slowing down. Here's a practical checklist for vetting solar companies in Georgia and spotting contract terms that deserve a hard look.
Know who you're actually dealing with
Many solar sales are made by a sales organization or dealer that hands the installation to a subcontractor. That isn't automatically a problem, but you should know:
- The legal name of the company you're signing with
- The company that will design and install the system, and whether it uses its own crews or subcontractors
- Who you'll call for service in year three or year twelve
- Whether a separate finance company or lessor is involved, and its name
If a salesperson can't answer these questions clearly, treat that as a warning sign.
Check licenses and insurance
Georgia does not have a solar-specific contractor license. The electrical work on a solar system generally needs to be done under a licensed electrical contractor, and other licenses, such as a residential or general contractor license, may apply depending on the scope. These trades are licensed through the State Construction Industry Licensing Board, and you can look up licenses on the Georgia Secretary of State's verification site.
- Ask for the license number and the name of the license holder, then verify it yourself.
- Ask for certificates of general liability insurance and workers' compensation coverage, and confirm they're current.
- Ask whether the installer will pull permits in its own name. Be wary of anyone who suggests skipping permits or pulling them in your name as an owner-builder.
Some installers have workers with voluntary industry credentials, such as NABCEP certification. These can be a positive sign, but they don't replace a state license.
Look at the track record carefully
- How long has the company operated under its current name? Some firms close and reopen under new names.
- Can it give you references for local installations that are a few years old?
- Read reviews on several platforms, looking for patterns around service after the sale, not just a smooth installation day.
- Check for complaints with the Better Business Bureau, and search the company's name along with words like "complaint" or "lawsuit."
Compare quotes on the same terms
Get at least two or three written proposals and line them up by:
- System size in kW and estimated annual production in kWh
- Panel, inverter, and racking make and model
- Total cash price and price per watt
- Full financed cost, including interest and any dealer fee
- The export credit rate and yearly utility rate increase assumed in the savings estimate
- Equipment, workmanship, and roof-penetration warranties, and who stands behind each one
A quote that shows only a monthly payment, or a savings figure presented as guaranteed, deserves extra questions.
Contract terms that deserve a hard look
Loans
Many "low rate" solar loans include a dealer fee paid by the installer to the lender, which is usually built into your price. That can make the amount you finance much higher than the cash price. Ask for both numbers in writing, and compare the installer's financing with a loan from your own bank or credit union. Also check whether the payment schedule assumes a large lump-sum paydown later. That structure was common when the federal credit was available for home systems. According to IRS guidance, that credit isn't available for property placed in service after December 31, 2025, so make sure the payments make sense without it.
Leases and PPAs
- Escalators. Many contracts raise your payment or per-kWh rate every year. Calculate what you'd pay in year 20, not just year one.
- Term and buyout. Contracts commonly run 20 years or more. Find out whether and when you can buy the system, and how that price is set.
- Selling your home. Learn the process for transferring the contract to a buyer, the buyer's credit requirements, and what happens if the buyer won't take it over.
- Property filings. Leasing companies often record a UCC fixture filing tied to the property. Ask how it's handled at sale or refinance.
- Production guarantees. Read exactly what's guaranteed, how it's measured, and what compensation you'd actually receive.
Warranties and service
Manufacturer warranties on panels and inverters can be long, but the labor to diagnose and replace parts may not be covered. Ask how long the workmanship warranty lasts, whether it covers roof leaks at the mounts, and what happens to service if the installer goes out of business.
Red flags
- "Free solar," "no cost to you," or claims of a government program that pays for panels
- Pressure to sign on the first visit, or a price that expires tonight
- Signing on a tablet without receiving a full copy of the contract
- Promises of a tax credit or rebate that you can't verify
- Claims that your electric bill will disappear
- Reluctance to put the cash price, the installer's name, or warranty terms in writing
If you signed and have second thoughts
Under the FTC's Cooling-Off Rule, many sales of $25 or more made at your home give you three business days to cancel, with some exceptions. Read the cancellation notice in your contract, follow its instructions exactly and in writing, and keep proof of when you sent it. Loan and lease documents may have their own cancellation terms. If you believe you were misled, you can report it to the FTC and to the Georgia Department of Law's Consumer Protection Division.
Before you pay
Avoid paying most of the price up front. Tie payments to milestones such as permit approval, installation, a passed inspection, and the utility's permission to operate. Ask for lien waivers from the installer and major suppliers as you pay, so an unpaid subcontractor or supplier is less likely to file a lien against your home.
If you'd like an independent second quote to compare, request a solar installer, or read about solar inspections and second opinions.
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Frequently asked questions
Does Georgia require a special license to install solar?
Georgia doesn't have a solar-specific contractor license. The electrical work generally needs a licensed electrical contractor, and other licenses may apply depending on the job. Verify any license number on the Georgia Secretary of State's lookup site.
How many solar quotes should I get?
At least two or three written quotes, compared on the same terms: system size, equipment, estimated production, cash price, full financed cost, and warranties. Differences in assumptions often explain big differences in promised savings.
What is a UCC filing on a solar lease?
It's a public notice a leasing company may record to show it owns the equipment on your roof. It can come up when you sell or refinance, so ask how the company handles it before you sign.